Column: Vegan Fashion Course: "Why is down unacceptable?"

 

Down jackets and duvets are common items in our daily lives, essential for keeping warm in winter. Have you ever considered how the down that goes into them is produced?
Let's explore the characteristics of down material, which enriches our lives, and the animal welfare issues behind its production.

 

 

What is Down?

 

Down refers to the chest feathers of waterfowl, also known simply as "down." There are two types of waterfowl from which down can be collected: geese and ducks.
Approximately 10 to 20 grams of down are collected from a single waterfowl. Considering that one duvet requires around 1000 grams of down, it's clear that manufacturing down products requires a significant number of waterfowl.
Originally, down was collected by gathering feathers shed naturally during the molting season (the period when waterfowl naturally shed and regrow their feathers), making it a very rare and expensive material in the past.

 

 

What is the difference between down and feathers?

 

While down and feathers are similar materials, how do they differ?
Down refers to the soft plumage found on the chest of waterfowl, whereas feathers are found on other parts of the waterfowl's body. Down has no quill, giving it a very fluffy texture, while feathers have a quill and are shaped like what we typically imagine as a "feather."
For example, in down jackets, down and feathers are mixed in a certain proportion. This blend leverages the high insulation of down and the elasticity of feathers to create warm, high-quality outerwear that resists losing its shape.
Notably, land birds like chickens do not have down on their chests; only feathers can be collected from them.

 

 

Down Production Methods

 

As mentioned earlier, the amount of down that can be collected from waterfowl is limited. So, how are enough down products produced to meet demand?
When wool is collected from sheep, it's shorn from their bodies using clippers. However, down is collected by plucking the feathers directly from the waterfowl's chest. This plucking process is called "live plucking."
There are several plucking methods, including mechanically plucking down from dead waterfowl and manually plucking down from dead waterfowl.

 

 

What is live plucking, a key issue in down production?

 

From an animal welfare perspective, the method of "live plucking" — plucking down from live waterfowl — is considered problematic.
When down is collected from live waterfowl, it is said that the feathers regrow approximately every 6 weeks after being plucked. This allows for repeated collection of down from a single bird, enabling efficient down production.
Reports indicate that the live plucking process involves unethical practices, such as forcibly tearing feathers from the waterfowl's chest and stitching wounds without anesthesia. Consequently, many people express strong objections to this production method.
Hearing this, some individuals might want to purchase down products produced without live plucking. However, under the current supply chain system, it is considered nearly impossible to trace where and how the down was collected. In other words, consumers cannot know whether the down items they use were manufactured through live plucking.

 

However, there is a brand that addresses this live plucking issue and declares itself 100% animal-free. The brand name is "SAVE THE DUCK," which clearly indicates their commitment to saving ducks. SAVE THE DUCK produces down using "PLUMTECH®," a polyester fiber that is lighter and dries faster than traditional polyester fibers. They also offer a series of products made from "RECYCLED PLUMTECH®," a fiber created from recycled materials like PET bottles, demonstrating their consideration not only for animals but also for the environment as a whole.

 

 

Recycled Down: An Approach for Animals and the Environment

 

In response to objections about using waterfowl down, synthetic down made from artificial chemical fibers, rather than animal-derived fibers, has also started to be produced. However, chemical fiber down faces many environmental challenges, such as requiring petroleum, which contributes to global warming, and demanding large quantities of water.
This is where "recycled down" has recently gained attention.
Recycled down is created by recovering and reusing down from used products to create new ones. Whether it's animal-derived down or chemical fiber down, recycled down production does not require primary resources (new raw materials). From the perspective of not placing a greater burden on animals or the environment, this can be considered a more valuable method. Recently, major apparel brands have also begun initiatives to collect and recycle used down products.

 

 

Down Jackets Born from Plant-Derived Materials

 

Beyond recycled down, there is growing interest in alternative down materials that address the root of animal welfare issues. For example, down made from plant-derived raw materials is emerging, such as PANGAIA's FLWRDWN™, which uses biodegradable material (material that returns to the soil through microbial action) made from flower petals, and Kapok Knot, which utilizes fibers extracted from kapok tree fruit.

 

 

Summary

 

While some challenges surrounding down, such as opaque supply chains, show no clear signs of resolution, solutions are continuously emerging through the development of alternative materials like recycled down and plant-derived down.
As consumers, if each of us consciously and proactively chooses products with these issues in mind, we might be able to change the entire manufacturing system. Let's not turn a blind eye to these problems and work together to address them.

 

Silk, with its smooth, light, and warm feel. Its elegant luster made it a highly prized material in ancient China, presented as tribute to emperors and kings. Even today, silk garments remain popular due to their excellent moisture absorption and release properties.

 

However, did you know there are critical perspectives on the ethical issues involved in silkworm breeding, which is essential for silk production? Let's explore the history of beautiful silk and its manufacturing process, and consider the issues surrounding silk.